Jewelry: The Body Transformed at the MET

The exhibition will open with a dramatic installation that emphasizes the universality of jewelry—precious objects made for the body, a singular and glorious setting for the display of art. Great jewelry from around the world will be presented in a radiant display that groups these ornaments according to the part of the body they adorn: head and hair; nose, lips, and ears; neck and chest; arms and hands; and waist, ankles, and feet.

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Sandals and toe stalls. New Kingdom. Dynasty 18, reign of Thutmose III (ca. 1479–1425 B.C.). Egypt, Upper Egypt, Thebes, Wadi Gabbanat el-Qurud,

The remaining galleries will be organized thematically by the kinds of performances jewelry orchestrates. The Divine Body will examine one of the earliest conceptions of jewelry—its link to immortality. Featured here will be a rare head-to-toe ensemble from ancient Egypt that accompanied the elite into the afterlife, as well as items from the Royal Cemetery of Ur, implicated in one of the most mysterious rituals of ancient Mesopotamia (present-day Iraq). Also highlighted will be the regalia of the rulers of Calima (present-day Colombia), who were lavishly covered in sheets of gold.

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The Regal Body will examine the use of jewelry throughout history to assert rank and status. Among the examples on display will be sapphires and pearls from Byzantium, finely wrought gold from the elites of Hellenistic Greece, and ivory and bronze from the Royal Courts of Benin.

159. Marriage Necklace
India | Marriage necklace ~ chettiar thali | Gold on black cotton cordage. | late 19th to early 20th century.

The Transcendent Body will focus on how jewelry is used to traverse the temporal and spiritual realms. This section will celebrate jewelry’s power to conjure spirits, appease gods, and invoke ancestors.  Sculpted images and exquisite jewelry from India will underscore the active role of gold ornaments in Hindu worship.  Adornments from Coastal New Guinea, splendidly fashioned from shell and feathers, will speak to jewelry’s capacity to channel the spiritual well-being of the wearer.

55. Broad Collar
Broad collar of Senebtisi from the Middle Kingdom, Dynasty 12, late–early 13 Egipto

The Alluring Body will explore how jewelry engenders desire. Woodblock prints and period ornaments will convey the ways in which hair dressing indicated a courtesan’s availability in Edo Japan. Photographs and spectacular jewels will highlight the eroticism of pearls in the Victorian era and beyond. Jewelry designed by Elsa Schiaparelli, Art Smith, Elsa Peretti, and Shaun Leane will document how contemporary artists push the limits of glamour, courting danger and even pain.

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These superb earrings consist of a large honeysuckle palmette below which hangs a finely worked three-dimensional figure of the Trojan prince Ganymede in the clutches of Zeus, who has assumed the guise of an eagle. Coveted by Zeus for his beauty, Ganymede was carried off to Mount Olympos to be a cup-bearer for the gods. The pendants are sculptural masterpieces in miniature, which no doubt reflect in their basic conception a famous large-scale bronze group of the same subject, made by Leochares in the first half of the fourth century B.C. The airborne theme is ingeniously adapted here to an object that hangs freely in space.

The Resplendent Body will call out the marriage of material and technique for the purpose of ostentation. Why wear jewelry, if not to be seen? Examples will include the opulent adornment of the Mughals; the aesthetic of accumulation in the gold and silver jewelry of the Akan and Fon peoples of West Africa; and the elegant designs of such legendary jewelry houses as Tiffany, Castellani, and Lalique. Contemporary jewelry makers—including Peter Chang, Joyce J. Scott, and Daniel Brush—who question and re-imagine notions of luxury and adornment will also be celebrated.

Replete with new acquisitions, acknowledged masterpieces, and recent discoveries from the collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Jewelry: The Body Transformed will test assumptions about what jewelry is and has been. It will also confirm that these precious objects are among the most potent vehicles of cultural memory.